The Wanderer
Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria
Andrew Marks is a second-generation Yarra Valley viticulturalist and winemaker. He continues on the Gembrook Hill estate that his parents Ian and June established in 1983. (We import both his Gembrook Hill wines and The Wanderer wines).
In creating The Wanderer label, well before he was in charge at Gembrook Hill, Andrew was able to explore alternative winemaking techniques (such as whole bunch fermentation) that would be out of place under te family label. Today, Andrew continues making The Wanderer wines, despite being in full control at Gembrook Hill. Tasting Gembrook Hill Pinot alongside The Wanderer Pinot is always a fascinating comparative tasting if you ever get the chance.
“We strive to deliver individual wines of flavour, character and balance by working with low yielding vineyards and using minimal wine making techniques to preserve the vineyard's natural goodness.”
‘The Wanderer’ Upper Yarra Chardonnay 2022
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Region: Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria
Soil: Volcanic Red
Grape: Chardonnay
Farming: organic
ABV: 12.5%
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The grapes were whole bunch pressed then run into barrel with full solids the next day. Wild fermentation, left on lees without stirring until bottling. Fermentation and elevage in old french barrels. Only two barrels made a puncheon 500L and a hogshead 300L.
This looks great: lots of energy in this wine with firm white peach and white nectarine flavours complementing a taut acid line that gives the sensation of water flowing over wet pebbles. It's linear and concentrated. I'm surprised to hear it went through full malo. - Chesterton Cook, LC Selections.
‘The Wanderer’ Upper Yarra Pinot Noir 2022
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Region: Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria
Soil: Volcanic Red
Grape: Pinot Noir
Farming: organic
ABV: 13.5%
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20% whole bunches. Cold soak and fermentation in open fermenters. Wild ferment. Hand plunged. Large format oak. 30% new Damy Alliers French oak for 11 months on lees. Tasted frequently touched rarely.
I love Wanderer Pinot. The 2022 has just been released and does differ stylistically from the previous two releases. Firstly, the vintage was difficult, and yields were very low. As a result, there is some real fruit concentration in this wine, a slight step away from the more elegant 2021 release. Still, i'm thoroughly enjoying it as I write this note. It shows some blood plum and rhubarb and is initially quite reductive when first poured. I'd decant this as it is showing more and more character as it laps up oxygen in the glass. Mouthfeel is as expansive as ever and fresh natural acid leaves the palate alive and fresh. As always, plenty going on with this wine. - Chesterton Cook, LC Selections.
‘The Wanderer’ Upper Yarra Chardonnay 2023
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Region: Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria
Soil: Volcanic Red
Grape: Chardonnay
Farming: organic
ABV: 12.5%
Purchased fruit from the lower Yarra Valley.
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The Wanderer Chardonnay comes from the same vineyard as our Upper Yarra Pinot Noir. Cane pruned I10V1 clone vines. The grapes were whole bunch pressed then run into barrel with full solids the next day. Wild fermentation, left on lees without stirring until bottling. Fermentation and elevage in old french barrels with a brie "kiss" of new oak. Three barrels made, two puncheons 500L and a hogshead 300L.
“The original lo-fi wine” Andrew jokes. A cool and wet vintage but ample hang-time resulted in perfectly ripe fruit (although tiny yields). This wine is a ball of energy and an interesting comparison to Dappled ‘Appellation’ Chardonnay and Gembrook Hill Chardonnay – both from the same region. This is perhaps the ripest of the bunch, marginally, with golden orchard fruit, red and green apple skin, a mealy undertow and generous, returning acidity that binds the palate together. I have sat down to have a glass and write this note and am draining the bottle an hour later. Such enjoyable yet serious Chardonnay. – Ches Cook, LC Selections.
‘The Wanderer’ Upper Yarra Pinot Noir 2023
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Region: Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria
Soil: Volcanic Red
Grape: Pinot Noir
Farming: organic
ABV: 13.5%
Single vineyard wine from Yellingbo, at the Southern end of the Yarra Valley. Cane pruned MV6 clone on volcanic red soil with Nth Eastern aspect at 200m elevation.
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20% whole bunches. Cold soak and fermentation in open fermenters. Wild ferment. Hand plunged. Large format oak. 30% new Damy Alliers French oak for 11 months on lees. Tasted frequently touched rarely. From another very low cropping vintage. Only 130 doz made.
The 2023 release of this wine is one of pure elegance, perhaps closer to the 2021 vintage than the more recent 2022. It’s a burst of pure red fruit up front, with a touch of ferrous earth below the surface. Here there is a hint of muscle, especially when compared to its Gembrook Hill relative. The use of wholebunch has been carefully handled, as it needed to be, in the cooler and wetter season. - Chesterton Cook, LC Selections.
