Breaking Ground
Hunter Valley, New South Wales
Breaking Ground is the label of siblings Ollie and Alessa Margan of the Hunter Valley. After both completing their Viticulture and Oenology studies, the pair are making these wines as a breakaway label to that of their family label, Margan Estate. With a contemporary vision both in the vineyard and winery, and a renewed focus on regenerative agriculture, the evolution and improvements in some of the estate vineyards have led to a set of wines showcasing a gentle approach to winemaking. Texture, energy and brightness typify these wines, consisting mainly of emerging varieties such as Albarino and Barbera. No inoculated yeast, added acidity, fining or filtration. All wines are sustainably certified, Vegan friendly and made from estate fruit.
In fact sustainability and a respect for the land is at the very heart of this label:
“We practice regenerative agriculture and follow organic under-vine principles. Our priority is soil health and as such eschew the use of inorganic weed management. Diversity of both flora and fauna in our vineyards help support a balanced ecosystem that in turn, maintains the enduring health and longevity of our own rooted old vines. A mixture of soil types (deep red volcanic heavy in basalt, grey clay/loam and deep alluvial river flats) all on sandstone provides a unique medium for us to explore different varieties and subsequent wine styles. Wines and vineyards are certified through Sustainable Winegrowers Australia” says Ollie.
In 2010 Breaking Ground took a more structured and measurable approach to how they farmed their land by developing an environmental management plan to reduce their impact across all business operations. This has involved a clear and detailed strategy to measure and reduce their emissions via the four basic pillars of sustainability: reduction of greenhouse gases; energy efficiency; waste reduction and water management.
We love the approach of Breaking Ground, but what must also be stressed is that the wines are flat-out fantastic and on top of that, very fairly priced. This is a label that fits entirely within the LC Selections brief: high quality, new-wave Australian wine.
Breaking Ground Albarino 2023
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Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Grape: Albarino
Farming: certified sustainable
Winemaking: Raised in old 500L puncheons.
ABV:
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All estate fruit, planted in 2014. Harvested over two picks with the second pick getting some skin contact.
Ollie tells me he is looking to express the phenolic profile of their wine. This certainly has some grip but also some breadth across the palate. The Hunter has a warm maritime climate with decent rainfall - lots of similarities with Rias Baixas in Spain (the home of this grape) and the crossover here is largely what’s responsible for the Margan’s planting the variety back in 2014. This 2023 release has great citric aromatics: not just lemon and lime but mandarin and blood orange, too. On the palate, lemon pith and sea spray are dominant characteristics, and the freshness is such that it’s reminiscent of sucking on melon skin. There’s great length and persistence of flavour. Many strings to the Breaking Ground bow, it seems. - Ches Cook, LC Selections.
Breaking Ground Chardonnay 2023
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Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Soil: ancient volcanic
Grape: Chardonnay
Farming: certified sustainable
ABV:
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A blend of parcels from Saxonvale, Ceres Hill and Fordwich Hill. A mixture of clones and vines ranging from 30-50yrs In age. Deliberate oxidative handling. Raised in old 500L puncheons. Certified sustained
All estate fruit. A round and medium bodied Chardonnay with very satisfying freshness. Hints of melon rind that brings a touch of cut and bite to the palate with a pleasantly bitter phenolic edge which nicely offsets the richness in the wine. Acid is fleshy and integrated and the wine is all too easy to drink. Ches Cook, LC Selections.
Breaking Ground Barbera 2023
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Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Soil: ancient volcanic
Grape: Barbera
Farming: certified sustainable
ABV:
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Vineyard planted in 1998. Fruit fully de-stemmed. Raised in old 500L puncheons.
This is a fairly straight-forward wine: it’s juicy, medium bodied and vibrant, with Ollie seeking to highlight the expressive nature of the variety. While edges are soft, the inherent acid profile of the variety keeps this wine fresh and with good linear shape. It’s the sort of wine to splash around and consume young. - Ches Cook, LC Selections.
Breaking Ground Cabernets 2023
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Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Soil: ancient red volcanic
Grape: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margan Saxonvale vineyard (deep volcanic clay/loam), 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot both from the Margan Ceres Hill vineyard
Farming: certifed sustainable
ABV:
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All destemmed and gently fermented over 10 days in 1T fermenters. Six month maturation in seasoned French oak puncheons before being bottled in late Spring prior to release in Autumn 2024.
Tea leaf, plum and mulberry all evident here with nice definition of flavour. The Cabernet Franc comes though on the nose with blue florals and hints of cola. Texturally fine and very slurpable, but more than sufficient tannins to close. Surprisingly structured. Looks good and another example of the diversity that is possible from the Hunter Valley when working with talented winemakers. - Ches Cook, LC Selections.
