Marco Lubiana

Derwent Valley, Tasmania

Marco is the son of Monique and Stefano Lubiana. You may recognise the name from the family estate, located on the Derwent Valley, 30 minutes west of Hobart. Marco is a second generation viticulturalist and wine maker, farming two sites planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay biodynamically. When not in the vineyard on winery, you may find Marco behind the bar at ‘Molto’ in Hobart. This is Marco’s wine bar where you’re guaranteed to drink well, be local Tasmanian produce or a glass of Burgundy, if you prefer. Molto is a must-visit watering hole if visiting Hobart.

The apple clearly doesn’t fall far from the tree. Marco launched his eponymous label back in 2018 and immediately made waves. They haven’t subsided either. With access to some of the Lubiana Estate vineyards in the Derwent Valley as well as a new addition of fruit sourced from the Panorama Vineyard in the southern Huon Valley, he is working solely with premium ingredients. Farming is according to biodynamic principles in both vineyards, and winemaking follows a similarly holistic approach.

Cellar work is gentle, with pumping at a minimal and use of gravity the preference. Cool temperatures then allow for slower, longer fermentation and flavour development as well as a stable environment for maturation. Marco uses SO2 sparingly.

Marco on vintage 2023: “2023 was a tricky year, it was the last year of the La Nina so it was cooler and wetter than normal. Thus making it challenging to mitigate disease but we were fortunate not to have any problems. The reds are typically more fruit forward from this year with less tannin, easy to drink straight out of the bottle, which is not a bad thing. On the other hand the chardonnays cropped very low due to the poor conditions, so acidity is up and so is complexity. I think they will need a bit of time, but they look good already. Overall I am very happy considering the challenging vintage, but it is just a lot harder to grow and make them!”

Marco Lubiana ‘Huon & Derwent’ Chardonnay 2022

Region Huon and Derwent Valleys, Tasmania
Soil Cobble stones over white clay (Huon) and red clay over gravely chalk (Derwent)
Grape Chardonnay
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 13%
2022 Chardonnay is a mix of 40% Huon Valley and 60% Derwent Valley. Hand picked and hand sorted the grapes were whole bunch pressed to 228L French oak barrels with 15% new oak, the ferment was wild and slow, malolactic fermentation was carried out in Spring and the wine remained on full lees for 11 months. The wine was carefully racked out of barrel in February 2023 and bottled in June 2023 without filtration.

Great nose and immediately quite expressive. The fruit appears ripe but lively, showing both stone fruit (golden peach) and some lighter citric elements (lime leaf and citrus oil). The generosity of fruit and flavour is evident, with plenty of mouth-filling expanse and some richness, aided by edges of nut and brittle. So much to like here - a real success. - Chesterton Cook, LC Selections.

Marco Lubiana ‘Huon & Derwent’ Pinot Noir 2022

Region Huon and Derwent Valleys, Tasmania
Soil Cobble Stone over white clay (Huon) and red clay over gravely chalk (Derwent)
Grape Pinot Noir
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 13%
Biodynamic. The wine is made from a mixture of whole bunch (Derwent) and whole berry (Huon), there is a gentle fermentation and long elevage in 228L barrels with 15% new French oak.

Serious Pinot here: the nose is very deep and alluring, showing dark cherry, blood plum and some savoury tones such as twig and walnut. Medium to full bodied on the palate, again showing dark fruit, but with a spark on energy there, too. It has a very appealing spice profile and the flavours of black cherry and cherry pip scream 'Tassie'. The acid is supportive and bright, while hints of oak case an otherwise very pure, vibrant and youthful Pinot. - Chesterton Cook, LC Selections.

Marco Lubiana Pinot Noir 2023

The first time that this wine has been entirely from Derwent Valley, however this will remain the case going forward.
Region Derwent Valley, Tasmania
Soil Red clay over gravely chalk. Fruit comes off the Stefano Lubiana Granton Estate Vineyard with 20% of the fruit coming off the Close Planted Vineyard (high up on the western side of the estate planted in 2019 1.3HA).
Grape Pinot Noir
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 13%
There is a lower level of whole bunch (30%) in 2023, due to the cooler and wetter season. The wine spends one full year in 228L barrels. Bottled onsite unfiltered. From certified biodynamic vineyards.

Again, continues the style of the 2022 nicely. Plush and generous, but not particularly fruit sweet. The initial primary fruit is made up of dark cherry and cherry pip, with forest floor elements throughout: damp earth, undergrowth etc. Acid is woven in nicely. Tasting this on day two the wine is possibly better, with more brightness and more red fruit on display. The perfume is also enhanced. - Ches Cook, LC Selections.

Marco Lubiana Chardonnay 2023

The first time that this wine has been entirely from Derwent Valley, however this will remain the case going forward.
Region Derwent Valley, Tasmania
Soil The fruit comes off the Stefano Lubiana Granton Estate Vineyard, the chardonnay is grown on a mix of brown/grey loam over gravel.
Grape Chardonnay
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 13%
Made much in the same way as previous years, juice straight to barrel, wild ferment, full malo, on lees for 10 months and 3 months in tank. I used little new oak due to cooler conditions not wanting to over power the delicate fruit. Bottled onsite unfiltered. From certified biodynamic vineyards.

Good ripeness on display here, as is typically the case with Marco's Chardonnay. A good continuation of style from the 2022, despite the slight change in fruit source. Bronzed stone fruit with some sunshine in the glass, but freshness too, through a hint of grapefruit. Fills the palate nicely. Very appy with this release. - Ches Cook, LC Selections.