The Vinous Landscape of Modern-Day Australia
The world of wine is hugely dynamic, and Australia is no exception. New producers, new wines, new ideas. However, in many cases ‘new’ is an inaccurate descriptor. ‘Rediscovered’ may be more apt. Winemakers are returning to the way things were done generations ago. Regions that were once great and were then neglected due to low yields and difficult terrain are being rediscovered for their quality and genuine character. Just look at old-vine Grenache out of McLaren Vale and those sites that survived the infamous vine-pull scheme of the 1980s, for example. Australia is full of heroic stories like this, and LC Selections is proud to represent producers who are harnessing lessons of the past to produce Australia’s most exciting wines of today.
The Lay of the Land
Australia is a massive country, similar in size to the United States. However only a small portion of land (generally situated within a few hundred kilometres of the coastline) is suitable for viticulture and wine production, and these areas are largely situated in the south of the country.
Australia has 60 recognised wine regions, and the sheer size of the country means that there is a huge amount of geographical diversity (and therefore huge diversity of wine style) from one region to the next. In our opinion, the diversity and complexities of Australia are often simplified or overlooked.
Climatically, as you will see, Australian wine regions are generally defined by their soils, their latitude, their water source, their proximity to the ocean and by their altitude. As a whole, it is fair to say that Australia is a hot and dry country, but it is important to stress, for example, how different the climate in South Australia’s Barossa Valley is to the climate in Victoria’s Yarra Valley. They’re almost worlds apart.
Australia is home to some of the world’s most ancient soils, and these days, some of the world’s oldest vines. How is this possible? In the late 19th century and early 20th century, a vine-eating louse swept across much of Europe, destroying vines as it went. Its name was (is) phylloxera, and it still exists today. When the louse was discovered, many vineyard sites were destroyed and needed to be replated (it was discovered that replanting vines with American rootstocks was effective, as American rootstocks are resilient to the louse). Due to Australia’s geographic isolation, it took many years for Phylloxera to reach the country. Admittedly, phylloxera is now present in parts of Australia, however it cannot tolerate sandy soils, so in regions such as McLaren Vale, you will find old Grenache, Shiraz, and Mataro (Mourvedre) vineyard sites that are now well over 100 years old. We’re proud to represent producers making wine from these sites.
Similar to France’s AOP system, or Italy’s DOC/G system, Australia is defined by a series of GIs (Geographical Indicators). There are 60 of them in total, and in fact, they’re a lot closer to the AVAs of the United States, rather than those of Europe. Australia’s GIs are geographical boarders that define a wine region. However, unlike the AOPs or DOCs of France and Italy, growers and winemakers are free to grow and make wine as they please. Want to plant Grenache in the Yarra Valley? Go right ahead. Want to age your wine in concrete instead of oak? That’s your choice. Here, in comparison to regions such as Burgundy or Barolo, Australian growers and winemakers have freedom to produce wine as they see fit, largely unbound by laws and regulations.
Traditionally, Australia once thrived on the production of fortified wines, most of which was consumed domestically. But in the 1970s and 1980s, a general shift in the market saw the population looking for dry wines with lower alcohol levels. Shiraz become the flag-bearer for the domestic market, and soon helped forge Australia’s reputation as a wine producing country internationally.
Today, the Australian wine landscape is more diverse than ever before. Shiraz is still the most widely planted grape variety, however there are many more producers exploring ‘alternative’ varieties. It is here where we are seeing many exciting wines made, and some of our producers are doing an incredible job of bringing these wines to the attention of consumers. There’s so much to explore and so much diversity within the country that it’s clear to see that Australia is undergoing a ‘new wave’ of exhilarating quality wine production.
Tasmania
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Tasmania, often referred to as ‘the island state’ or the ‘apple isle’ (due to a strong history of growing and exporting apples to the UK) is Australia’s southern-most state and is less than an hour’s flight from Melbourne. Due to its southerly latitude, it is considered a cool climate wine region and for various reasons, is covered solely by one GI (Geographical Indicator). Despite this, Tasmania has impressive climate diversity, with grape growing regions spread from the Tamar Valley in the north, Coal River Valley and Derwent Valley around Hobart (the capital city of the state) and the Huon Valley an hour south of Hobart.
Tasmania’s land under vine is currently sitting at approximately 2000 hectares, which is comparable to the region of Barolo in Italy’s north-west.
“Australia is a high-UV country (lots of sunlight). Take Tasmania: it's a bit colder than Champagne in terms of heat summation but sees nearly 1000 more sunlight hours in an average year than its European counterpart - 1000! Although sun can bring its own problems, requiring consideration for planting and canopy decisions, when correctly managed, the increased sun without a corresponding increase in temperature can result in an enhancement of phenolic ripeness (without a corresponding increase in sugar ripeness, which results in higher alcohol). A bit jargony, but here's the bottom line: Australia's sunny disposition, when grapes are matched to their appropriate climates, results in wines that have extreme depth of flavour coupled with extreme freshness. A winning and unique combination.” – Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross MW, ‘How to Drink Australian’.
The Derwent Valley
The Derwent River runs in a south-easterly direction towards Tasmania’s capital city, Hobart. The Derwent Valley, home to some of Tasmania’s best vineyard sites, is surprisingly dry, sitting in a rain shadow created by Kunanyi/Mount Wellington and the Central Highlands that the divide the state into East and West. In fact, Hobart is Australia’s second driest capital city, a fact that surprises many the first time they hear this. Naturally, the River Derwent has a strong maritime effect on the fruit grown nearby, an effect that lessens the further you move from the river. In some cases, viticulture is made possible by using the river as a source of irrigation. Cool climate varieties thrive, namely Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling.
The Huon Valley
The Huon Valley is a product of the Huon River which moves in a largely easterly direction towards the coast. The region is wetter and cooler than the Derwent, for example, and is about a 45-minute drive south of Hobart. Due to the higher rainfall, some producers (such as our own Sailor Seeks Horse) strive to grow their fruit without irrigation. As is the case across most of Tasmania, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the two varieties that see the greatest success.
Our Tasmanian Producers:
Victoria
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Victoria exists in the far south-east corner of mainland Australia. Like the country as a whole, it has a huge amount of diversity between its various wine regions, ranging from the very cold Macedon Ranges (the country’s coldest mainland region) where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominate, Rutherglen (a hot and dry region renowned for its fortifieds), Heathcote where Shiraz is king and the Yarra Valley which is has both traditional and contemporary winemaking significance.
The Yarra Valley
The Yarra Valley is Victoria’s oldest wine region. It spans from the Yarra Ranges National Park in the east, through to the outer suburbs of Melbourne in the west. Melbourne is Victoria’s capital city and the second largest city in Australia, home to approximately 5 million people.
The Yarra Valley is made up of a series of towns that loosely follow the path of the Yarra River as it winds its way towards Melbourne. It will take you approximately one hour to reach the town of Healesville (central Yarra Valley) if driving by car, moving in a north-easterly direction from Melbourne.
The region is home to some of Australia’s most historically significant producers in Yeringberg, Yarra Yering and Mount Mary. These days, a new wave of producers is doing exciting things throughout the region, with some exploring the ‘Upper Yarra’ (up-stream, further east) where elevation increases and drainage in enhanced.
The Yarra Valley is comfortably classed as a cool climate, with an average January temperature (i.e., in the middle of summer) in Healesville sitting at 18.9 degrees Celsius. Traditionally, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz were the most favoured varieties of the region, however today, while these varieties are still very significant, it could be argued that there is greater focus today on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
“The Yarra Valley has made it cool to be classic.” – Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross MW, ‘How to Drink Australian’.
Rainfall in the Yarra is moderate but not low, rarely dropping below 700ml in the growing season, meaning many sites can exist without the use of irrigation. In terms of soils, mudstone and siltstone exist close to the river, with some volcanic pockets, too.
Our Victorian Producers:
South Australia
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In general, South Australia has a hot, Mediterranean climate. While desert covers much of the state, the wine regions of South Australia are located in its southern reaches and largely within a couple of hours drive from the coast (with the exception of Riverland which, as the name suggests, accesses water respite in other ways).
The growing season is typically quite dry and while disease pressure is generally very low, hydric stress is a common enemy of viticulture. That being said, Australia as a whole, but perhaps South Australia most significantly, has had three recent years of La Nina. La Nina is a prolonged weather event bringing enhanced winds and rainfall to the Australian summer. Temperatures are generally more moderate, too, compared to the typical heat spikes of a ‘normal’ summer. In South Australia, vintages 2021, 2022 and 2023 have all been marked (if not defined) by La Nina and are all cooler, wetter seasons than what typically characterises a growing season in SA.
“Today, South Australia’s reputation is sometimes reduced to its more famous regions, and the bold red wines they produce. But the state is home to a diverse array of wine production, traversing everything from the most filigreed sparkling wines to, yes, the brawniest of reds. It’s home to some of Australia’s most traditional wine producing regions as well as some of its most avant-garde and ground-breaking. With nearly 200 years of winemaking in their blood, South Australians are prepared for the next 200 with verve and tenacity.” – Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross MW, ‘How to Drink Australian’.
Shiraz very much dominates the region and is responsible, for example, for 60% of plantings in the Barossa Valley. However South Australia is no one trick pony, and today we see producers making a hugely diverse array of wines from a whole number of varieties.
Perhaps the most exciting thing happening in SA in recent times is the ‘rediscovery’ of Grenache and the straight varietal wines being made from the variety, particularly in McLaren Vale. “In the last 10-15 years, there has been a definite paradigm shift, with vintners using a lighter hand toward the production of grenache.” – Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross MW, ‘How to Drink Australian’.
McLaren Vale
McLaren Vale is currently enjoying its time in the sun. In our opinion, it would have to be the most exciting wine region in Australia today, largely due to the relatively recent focus on single varietal (and often, single site) Grenache. The Vale (as it is often called) is home to some of the world’s oldest Grenache vineyards, due, in part, to having dodged phylloxera (the vine root eating louse) that wiped out much of Europe approximately 100 years ago. Today, some of these sites are producing fruit of a quality that matches the best in the world and is able to translate a sense of place in a remarkable way.
McLaren Vale is only 45 minutes south of Adelaide, and its proximity to the city has contributed to its success, benefitting from food and wine tourism in a similar way to the Hunter Valley in NSW or the Yarra Valley in Victoria. But the wines speak for themselves, and while Shiraz plantings still dominate the land (54% of all plantings), Grenache is the variety on the tip of many peoples tongues (although only making up 6% of all plantings).
Here the climate is Mediterranean, with hot dry summers but considerable influence from the Southern Ocean nearby. The region’s proximity to the ocean helps moderate temperatures and also provides cooling winds that make growing conditions quite favourable. Two-thirds of the region’s rainfall occurs outside of the growing season.
McLaren Vale has also become known for producers who take pride in exploring so-called ‘alternative varieties’ and it is here where you will find everything from Vermentino, Fiano and Chenin Blanc to Tempranillo, Mencia and Aglianico.
Within the region, some sub-regions have risen to fame, most notably Blewitt Springs. Termed “the dress circle” of McLaren Vale by Master of Wine Ned Goodwin, it is here where soils are particularly sandy (although not homogenous) and Grenache tends to thrive. “Wines from the stonier soils of Blewitt Springs tend to be darker in colour and a bit more structured in their youth, while those from the finer sands are more ethereal and garneted in colour, with powdery tannins.” – Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross MW, ‘How to Drink Australian’.
Barossa Valley
The Barossa Valley is by far Australia’s most famous and recognisable region. It’s Australia’s equivalent to the Napa Valley in the USA, in terms of fame. From Adelaide (the capital city of South Australia) drive just over an hour north and you’ll find yourself in the heart of the region.
Fortified wines once dominated the industry here, but for the past 50 years or so, it is red table wine made from Shiraz that typifies the region. Like in other parts of the country, certain styles of wine once popular with the older generation seem to be being phased out (over-ripe wines often shrouded in excessive new oak) and a new generation of wine maker are redefining the region. ‘Freshness’ and ‘vitality’ and words we can now use to describe the best wines of the Barossa Valley.
Today the Barossa GI exists with two sub-regions within it: Barossa Valley and Eden Valley, the latter having more elevation and being seen as slightly cooler.
Adelaide Hills
If travelling from nearby Barossa Valley into the Adelaide Hills (a 30 minute drive), you could be forgiven for thinking that you were somehow hours and hours away, such is the change in climate and geography. The Adelaide Hills (or ‘The Hills’ as South Australian residents refer to them by) area only a short distance out of South Australia’s capital city, Adelaide, moving east. A reasonably sharp increase in elevation is key here, marking this wine region as decidedly cool climate. Plantings can be found up to 585m above sea level.
Adelaide Hills is a GI of its own, running 70km north to south and 30km east to west. It’s noticeably greener and wetter than surrounding regions (Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale) and is a region that has forged a reputation as a place of small growers (as opposed to the big – and sometime corporate – names that have come out of neighbouring regions).
Here you’ll see Pinot Noir and Chardonnay planted widely, although Shiraz stakes a claim as being particularly suitable to the region, making wines of a very different style to those of the Barossa. Here some producers will choose to label their Shiraz Syrah: a nod to the cool climate style they’re aiming to achieve.
Beyond this, Sauvignon Blanc seems suitable and has had its successes, while sparkling wine production (both method traditional and petillant naturel) is notable.
In recent times (the last 15 years or so), The Hills has established a reputation as a hotbed for the natural wine movement in Australia. Whether you like the wines or not, producers such as Lucy Margaux and Ochota Barrels really helped amplify the region as a whole and spurred on other producers to follow in their footsteps. As this movement matures, it seems as though the better producers remain and continue to improve, while others have fallen by the wayside. And as has happened in parts of Europe, once extreme takes on viticulture and winemaking within the natural scene have (perhaps through trial and error) corrected past faults and have come back towards the centre in search of producing clean wines with greater longevity. The producers from the Adelaide Hills that we represent within our portfolio follow a minimal intervention approach in the winery, but apply maximum attention to detail in the vineyards to help mould their wines.
Soils can vary quite significantly, with clay and loam in the lower sites and a variety of shale, ironstone and quartz in other sites. More favourable sites will often have thinner soils with better water runoff than others.
Mount Gambier
Mount Gambier is South Australia’s southernmost wine region. It is located in the far south-east corner of the state, bordering Victoria. Due to its location (not just it’s southerly latitude but also its exposure to cold ocean winds from the Antarctic Ocean) the region can be classed as cool climate.
It exists around an extinct volcano, with soils today being made up of volcanic loams. Some producers, such as our own Good Intentions, are working in the region due, in part, to the affordability of land compared to some of the more famous regions in the state.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the most widely planted varieties, however there is a wide spread of things planted here.
Our South Australian Producers:
Harrison (McLaren Vale/multi-regional)
Aphelion (McLaren Vale/multi-regional)
Good intentions (Mount Gambier)
Frederick Stevenson (McLaren Vale/multi-regional)